Believe it or not, rough-skin season is quickly descending upon us. As temperatures drop and indoor heat kicks on, all that cold, dry air can leave skin feeling tight, flaky, and generally unhappy—which is usually our cue to reach for soothing ingredients. You’ve probably already heard of some of the popular players: green tea, cica, and oatmeal, to name a few. Haven’t heard much about allantoin yet? Well, that’s about to change.
The ingredient has actually been in many of your skincare staples for years, popping up in everything from diaper creams to after-sun gels. It can calm irritation, hold onto moisture, and even smooth bumpy texture—all without the sting you might associate with some exfoliating acids. As Jane Yoo, MD, a dual board-certified dermatologist and Mohs surgeon based in New York City, explains, allantoin is “an anti-irritant and soothing agent first,” making it especially useful when skin feels dry or compromised. It’s also one reason allantoin earns its place in our nourishing-yet-lightweight HaruHaru Wonder Black Rice 5 Ceramide Barrier Moisturizing Cream (more on that in a bit).
Ahead, we’ll break down what allantoin is, what it can do for dry, chafed skin, and why this unsung hero deserves a spot in your routine.
What is Allantoin?
“Allantoin is a naturally derived compound found in comfrey root and sugar beets,” says Dr. Yoo. Despite its botanical origins, the allantoin you’ll find on an ingredient list is typically lab-made rather than extracted directly from plants. This distinction helps manufacturers maintain a consistent and stable ingredient from formula to formula.
What Does Allantoin Do for the Skin?
Think of allantoin as a comfort-first ingredient. “The FDA classifies it as an approved skin-protectant active at concentrations of 0.5–2%,” says Dr. Yoo. Unlike exfoliating acids or retinoids, it doesn’t tingle, peel, or otherwise announce that it’s working. Instead, allantoin is prized for being mild and well tolerated, making it a great fit for K-beauty formulas like the Black Rice 5 Ceramide Barrier Moisturizing Cream that keep sensitive skin in mind.
While allantoin may be best known for soothing, it’s more of a multitasker than its calming reputation suggests.
First, it eases irritation. That’s especially useful when your complexion is dealing with the telltale signs of a stressed skin barrier: dryness, tightness, flaking, or general discomfort. Rather than acting as a barrier lipid itself, allantoin creates a more balanced environment in which the barrier can do its job. “Allantoin isn’t a barrier-lipid ingredient the way ceramides or fatty acids are, but it supports the barrier indirectly and effectively,” says Dr. Yoo. “Its wound-healing properties calm inflammation. Inflamed skin is leaky skin—reducing that irritation aids in bringing transepidermal water loss (TEWL) back down.” Translation: When your skin barrier is weakened, it has a harder time keeping water in, which can leave skin feeling drier, tighter, and more sensitive.
Allantoin also has humectant properties, meaning it attracts and holds onto water. And it also offers a very gentle smoothing effect. Dr. Yoo describes it as mildly keratolytic, meaning it can loosen and shed some dead cells on the skin’s surface.
That’s a nice one-two punch for skin that’s dry and rough. Rather than aggressively exfoliating flakes away, allantoin addresses uneven texture while encouraging skin to stay hydrated and comfortable.
How Allantoin Works With Other Skincare Ingredients
Allantoin is less of a solo act and more of a team player. Because it’s so gentle, it can slot into formulas with hydrating, barrier-supporting, and even more intensive active ingredients.
“It pairs beautifully with Centella asiatica (cica) and panthenol for an extra calming, redness-reducing effect, and with humectants like glycerin and hyaluronic acid for hydration,” says Dr. Yoo. Allantoin and ceramides also make a natural pair. While allantoin helps keep a compromised barrier from becoming even more stressed, ceramides replenish some of the lipids the barrier needs to function properly. Dr. Yoo puts the distinction simply: “I think of allantoin less as a barrier-repair ingredient and more as a barrier-protective one.” The Black Rice 5 Ceramide Barrier Moisturizing Cream contains five types of ceramides—ceramide NP, NS, AS, AP, and EOP—plus cholesterol and phytosphingosine (a lipid-like component that serves as a building block of ceramides) to reinforce the barrier.
Why We Chose Allantoin for Our Cream
When it comes to moisturizers, there’s no shortage of options out there (and K-beauty alone could keep your bathroom shelf fully stocked!). So when we created the Black Rice 5 Ceramide Barrier Moisturizing Cream, we wanted it to do more than feel great when you first apply it, only to have your skin thirsty for more a few hours later. The goal was hydration that sticks around, plus a formula that supports the skin barrier over time.
In clinical studies, participants applied the finished Black Rice 5 Ceramide Barrier Moisturizing Cream to their forearms twice a day for two weeks. Researchers then measured TEWL, or how much water escapes through the skin. After two weeks, clinical testing showed a 23.6% improvement in skin barrier function, as measured by TEWL. In more everyday terms? Skin was doing a better job of keeping water where you want it: in.
Of course, a moisturizer also has to be one you actually look forward to slathering on. For all the ingredients packed into the formula, the cream feels surprisingly light on skin. Researchers asked participants about their experience with the cream, and they all rated its moistness and smoothness positively. No adverse skin reactions were observed during the two-week evaluation period. (Though if your skin is prone to reactions, it’s always important to patch test new products.)
Who Can Benefit From an Allantoin Cream?
Allantoin is one of those rare ingredients that doesn’t require complicated logistics to figure out whether it belongs in your routine. While its mild, calming nature makes sense for dry, dehydrated, rough, or easily reactive skin, you don’t need to wait until your complexion is in crisis to use it.
It’s also a great buffer if your routine includes ingredients such as retinoids, AHAs, or BHAs. Those actives can be effective, but they may also leave skin feeling dry or sensitized, especially when you’re first introducing them or using them frequently. Pairing your routine with a moisturizer containing barrier-supporting ingredients can keep skin feeling more balanced. Dr. Yoo notes that allantoin is often paired with ingredients such as niacinamide to balance active skincare with alleviating support.
The fragrance-free Black Rice 5 Ceramide Barrier Moisturizing Cream was formulated for all skin types and has a lightweight, non-greasy finish despite its deeply moisturizing feel. That makes it easy to work into a morning and/or evening routine: Apply an appropriate amount after toner and essence or serum, then gently massage and press it into the skin to melt the ceramide capsules.
Ultimately, allantoin isn’t here to make already-stressed skin work any harder: It relieves irritation, helps skin hold onto moisture, and gently polishes out roughness, while ingredients like ceramides take on more of the barrier-building work. And whether you’re dealing with cold-weather dryness, an overzealous active routine, or skin that’s simply sensitive by nature, a little extra soothing support can go a long way.
What Is Allantoin in Skincare? A Guide to Its Soothing Benefits
Believe it or not, rough-skin season is quickly descending upon us. As temperatures drop and indoor heat kicks on, all that cold, dry air can leave skin feeling tight, flaky, and generally unhappy—which is usually our cue to reach for soothing ingredients. You’ve probably already heard of some of the popular players: green tea, cica, and oatmeal, to name a few. Haven’t heard much about allantoin yet? Well, that’s about to change.
The ingredient has actually been in many of your skincare staples for years, popping up in everything from diaper creams to after-sun gels. It can calm irritation, hold onto moisture, and even smooth bumpy texture—all without the sting you might associate with some exfoliating acids. As Jane Yoo, MD, a dual board-certified dermatologist and Mohs surgeon based in New York City, explains, allantoin is “an anti-irritant and soothing agent first,” making it especially useful when skin feels dry or compromised. It’s also one reason allantoin earns its place in our nourishing-yet-lightweight HaruHaru Wonder Black Rice 5 Ceramide Barrier Moisturizing Cream (more on that in a bit).
Ahead, we’ll break down what allantoin is, what it can do for dry, chafed skin, and why this unsung hero deserves a spot in your routine.
What is Allantoin?
“Allantoin is a naturally derived compound found in comfrey root and sugar beets,” says Dr. Yoo. Despite its botanical origins, the allantoin you’ll find on an ingredient list is typically lab-made rather than extracted directly from plants. This distinction helps manufacturers maintain a consistent and stable ingredient from formula to formula.
What Does Allantoin Do for the Skin?
Think of allantoin as a comfort-first ingredient. “The FDA classifies it as an approved skin-protectant active at concentrations of 0.5–2%,” says Dr. Yoo. Unlike exfoliating acids or retinoids, it doesn’t tingle, peel, or otherwise announce that it’s working. Instead, allantoin is prized for being mild and well tolerated, making it a great fit for K-beauty formulas like the Black Rice 5 Ceramide Barrier Moisturizing Cream that keep sensitive skin in mind.
While allantoin may be best known for soothing, it’s more of a multitasker than its calming reputation suggests.
First, it eases irritation. That’s especially useful when your complexion is dealing with the telltale signs of a stressed skin barrier: dryness, tightness, flaking, or general discomfort. Rather than acting as a barrier lipid itself, allantoin creates a more balanced environment in which the barrier can do its job. “Allantoin isn’t a barrier-lipid ingredient the way ceramides or fatty acids are, but it supports the barrier indirectly and effectively,” says Dr. Yoo. “Its wound-healing properties calm inflammation. Inflamed skin is leaky skin—reducing that irritation aids in bringing transepidermal water loss (TEWL) back down.” Translation: When your skin barrier is weakened, it has a harder time keeping water in, which can leave skin feeling drier, tighter, and more sensitive.
Allantoin also has humectant properties, meaning it attracts and holds onto water. And it also offers a very gentle smoothing effect. Dr. Yoo describes it as mildly keratolytic, meaning it can loosen and shed some dead cells on the skin’s surface.
That’s a nice one-two punch for skin that’s dry and rough. Rather than aggressively exfoliating flakes away, allantoin addresses uneven texture while encouraging skin to stay hydrated and comfortable.
How Allantoin Works With Other Skincare Ingredients
Allantoin is less of a solo act and more of a team player. Because it’s so gentle, it can slot into formulas with hydrating, barrier-supporting, and even more intensive active ingredients.
“It pairs beautifully with Centella asiatica (cica) and panthenol for an extra calming, redness-reducing effect, and with humectants like glycerin and hyaluronic acid for hydration,” says Dr. Yoo. Allantoin and ceramides also make a natural pair. While allantoin helps keep a compromised barrier from becoming even more stressed, ceramides replenish some of the lipids the barrier needs to function properly. Dr. Yoo puts the distinction simply: “I think of allantoin less as a barrier-repair ingredient and more as a barrier-protective one.” The Black Rice 5 Ceramide Barrier Moisturizing Cream contains five types of ceramides—ceramide NP, NS, AS, AP, and EOP—plus cholesterol and phytosphingosine (a lipid-like component that serves as a building block of ceramides) to reinforce the barrier.
Why We Chose Allantoin for Our Cream
When it comes to moisturizers, there’s no shortage of options out there (and K-beauty alone could keep your bathroom shelf fully stocked!). So when we created the Black Rice 5 Ceramide Barrier Moisturizing Cream, we wanted it to do more than feel great when you first apply it, only to have your skin thirsty for more a few hours later. The goal was hydration that sticks around, plus a formula that supports the skin barrier over time.
In clinical studies, participants applied the finished Black Rice 5 Ceramide Barrier Moisturizing Cream to their forearms twice a day for two weeks. Researchers then measured TEWL, or how much water escapes through the skin. After two weeks, clinical testing showed a 23.6% improvement in skin barrier function, as measured by TEWL. In more everyday terms? Skin was doing a better job of keeping water where you want it: in.
Of course, a moisturizer also has to be one you actually look forward to slathering on. For all the ingredients packed into the formula, the cream feels surprisingly light on skin. Researchers asked participants about their experience with the cream, and they all rated its moistness and smoothness positively. No adverse skin reactions were observed during the two-week evaluation period. (Though if your skin is prone to reactions, it’s always important to patch test new products.)
Who Can Benefit From an Allantoin Cream?
Allantoin is one of those rare ingredients that doesn’t require complicated logistics to figure out whether it belongs in your routine. While its mild, calming nature makes sense for dry, dehydrated, rough, or easily reactive skin, you don’t need to wait until your complexion is in crisis to use it.
It’s also a great buffer if your routine includes ingredients such as retinoids, AHAs, or BHAs. Those actives can be effective, but they may also leave skin feeling dry or sensitized, especially when you’re first introducing them or using them frequently. Pairing your routine with a moisturizer containing barrier-supporting ingredients can keep skin feeling more balanced. Dr. Yoo notes that allantoin is often paired with ingredients such as niacinamide to balance active skincare with alleviating support.
The fragrance-free Black Rice 5 Ceramide Barrier Moisturizing Cream was formulated for all skin types and has a lightweight, non-greasy finish despite its deeply moisturizing feel. That makes it easy to work into a morning and/or evening routine: Apply an appropriate amount after toner and essence or serum, then gently massage and press it into the skin to melt the ceramide capsules.
Ultimately, allantoin isn’t here to make already-stressed skin work any harder: It relieves irritation, helps skin hold onto moisture, and gently polishes out roughness, while ingredients like ceramides take on more of the barrier-building work. And whether you’re dealing with cold-weather dryness, an overzealous active routine, or skin that’s simply sensitive by nature, a little extra soothing support can go a long way.